Has anyone used this product? The sample of course is small, so it is hard to understand how this product curves without kinking. If you curve it, does it hold the shape or does it spring back to straight? How did you hold it in place The long sections supplied 36" long, as I recall are nice and flexible. When ever I needed to screw the track down in order to hold it in place until the glue dried, I later went back and removed all the screws.
Track tutorial. I use Flexxbed on my entire layout. It's fantastic. It curves in one piece so you don't have to work with split lengths or anything like that. Also, it's VERY versatile. I use it for much more than just the roadbed under the track. I use it for a base foundation for all of my structures and I also use it for my roads. It's wonderful stuff. I highly recommend it. The only drawback is that Hobby Innovations doesn't take Credit Card orders.
You have to send in a check to them, then they will cut your order. It usually takes about weeks to get your order in your hands. So there's a degree of patience required when ordering it, but it's worth the wait. Whenever I've ordered it, I always order a large amount. That way I don't have to re-order for a long time.
Cascade Rail Supply
I just put in a new order a few weeks ago so that I can do some roadwork on my layout. It shipped a few days ago so I should have it soon. Thanks to everyone who responded. I had to leave for the day, so I just got to view your responses. I noticed that Eric puts his on top of homasote.There are many variations on how to build benchwork and what to use for your roadbed.
Ultimately you will have to decide on how to proceed. Always use proper safety equipment when using power tools. The problem with this type of lumber is it may not be as straight as you want. This way when you lay your HO track it will remain level. Cork can be used as your roadbed, since it will easily follow any variations in elevation.
Make sure you use the proper adhesive to glue it to polystyrene insulation. Homabed is available for a large variety of scales and purposes. For ultimate realism, your ballasted main line should be about 12 scale inches higher than your sidings. Glue the Homasote and Homabed directly to the sub-roadbed.
Homasote is excellent for sound deadening, and it accepts track spikes well. Homasote is stable in moist environments, your support structure is more likely to move around if the environment is moist.
Note that if you are using Homasote and planning on cutting it yourself, it is a very dusty process, and it will take a toll on your saw blade.
You may want to have your lumberyard cut it for you. Your email address will not be published.Ligonier Valley RR Part 2 Working with Homasote Spline Roadbed
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Learn how your comment data is processed. Toggle navigation. Search for:. By : Scott. Building Benchwork. For ideas on laying out your model railroad, get a copy of my book loaded with tips to help you plan your layout.
For more information about building benchwork, you can find great resources online. Share on Facebook. Follow us. Post navigation Previous Previous post:. Next Next post:. Building Benchwork and Scenery. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published.I was reading the free online August issue of Model Railroad Hobbyist MRH magazine and found a blog post about the pros and cons of homasote roadbed. I've been using homasote roadbed for at least 40 years.
It's still my preferred method for installing either subroadbed on plywood or roadbed on plywood. I've experimented with foamboard and cork but don't like it when handlaying and spiking track although it's alright for commerical tracklaying using white glue or foamboard adhesive. I also don't like mounting switch machines on pads under pink or blue styrofoam.
I prefer mounting to plywood with homasote on top. Because homasote is a paper product pressed from old newspapers and other paper it will dull saw blades and utility knives quickly. I always work with a respirator when sawing. My method is to cut the 4 X 8 foot sheets outside on the driveway. I set the homasote on top of a garden table so it won't sag when being cut.
Wider, of course, for G scale roadbed. Under yards I use sheets cut to size. I also often use it for building sites that can be inset into the layout after the structure is completed at the workbench. I use a circular saw with a standard or coarse-tooth blade. I was taught to notch the homasote alternately every couple of inches about halfway into the centre from both sides. This allows the homasote to be bent for curves. The gaps can be filled with plaster, spackling compound or Sculptamold.
It is possible to bevel the sides of the straight roadbed by tilting the saw blade. I didn't bother to do this on my indoor G scale layout that sat above the HO layout. Or it can be cut with a sharp utility knife afterwards. Sanding the edges helps. I have also cut slopes after the track has been laid using a utility knife and chisel. This takes time and can be difficult.
Homasote would be useless on outdoor G scale layouts because it is a paper product and rain would destroy it. The blog post warned against using a router. I agree. You'd quickly dull the cutter and there would be even more dust.As with all components on a model railroad, the stuff that goes under the tracks is highly important for the functionality and appearance of your layout.
From the framework to the subroadbed to the ballast, each component serves an essential purpose toward making a realistic and effective railroad. This is especially true for the model railroad roadbed.
There are a variety of options to choose from for the model railroad roadbed on your layout, and each carries its own pros and cons. When deciding which type of model railroad roadbed to utilize on your specific layout, you should take a few things into consideration to make sure the option you pick will work properly and suit your needs.
So in this lesson, we teach you about the various types of model railroad roadbed you can choose for the trackage on your layout, and walk you through the benefits and drawbacks of each. To help you figure out which kind of model railroad roadbed will work best for the unique needs of your layout, NMRA Master Modeler Gerry Leone introduces the most common materials modelers use to support their trackage.
He talks a bit about each material, and explains why certain options might be better suited for your railroad. Gerry shows you how to apply strips of roadbed to your subroadbed, and discusses why he tends to prefer one option over the rest for its sound dampening, durability and manipulability. Click here to cancel reply. Hi, Richard. I like to use a mixture of real earth siftedsand siftedWoodland Scenics earth turf, and Woodland Scenics yellow or burnt grass mixes. Blend the ingredients to your satisfaction.
How about the Flexxxbed products by Hobby Innovations. I have used their products with excellent results. Tags: Free VideosGerry Leoneroadbedtrack bed. Nothing completes a model railroad quite like a well made backdrop.
You can add a remarkable amount of realism to your model railroad layouts by setting the scene for a nice blue sky day with a room-brightening backdrop. Oftentimes, holes and gaps in a model railroad backdrop are essential in order to have a train end up somewhere else in the scene.
These holes in a structure help give it more depth and add to the aesthetic appeal and realistic nature of your model. However, when left exposed they can have the opposite….
For the next stop on our tour of the Colorado and Southern Railway, we explore the layout and scenery of Baldwin. Toeing the narrow ledges of coal mines buried…. Remember me. Lost your password?
Picking the Best Model Railroad Roadbed for Your Layout
How to choose the right model railroad roadbed To help you figure out which kind of model railroad roadbed will work best for the unique needs of your layout, NMRA Master Modeler Gerry Leone introduces the most common materials modelers use to support their trackage. Tips for Painting Backdrops for Model Railroads.
Get Connected. Stay On Track.I've enjoyed using Homasote roadbed for quite a few decades but it seems to have come close to unobtanium in the past few years. Initial indications are good from the new source as my order was shipped out immediately.
Prices seem quite good too.
Laying HO Track – Tips and Techniques For A Solid Foundation
Thanks Rick for the information. I just ordered an 8 foot straight bundle of S roadbed. Your timing couldn't have come at a better time. I'm in the process of redesigning my home layout but first I'm building a staging cassette for my 4'x6' portable layout.
I have a number of products that I wanted to tryout, namely roadbed. Is that really the same thing as Homasote? All these years I've thought Homasote was something special, and it's just the same stuff used in junk furniture? Surely not! Homasote is more a paper product, hence it "softness" to take track spikes. Many of my friends here in Vancouver use spruce plywood instead of homasote, spruce takes spikes very nicely, and the plywood is cut at an angle to the roadbed profile.
No, Homasote and MDF are two completely different things. Homasote is pulped recycled paper pressed together with a type of wax as its binder.
It is pretty soft. One of its other uses is as bulletin boards like the ones most of us grew up with in our school classrooms. Putting a thumbtack or a spike in Homasote is very easy but it holds well. MDF despite its name of "medium density" is, by comparison, hard as a rock. You will not press a thumbtack or spike into it without a hammer or pre drilling. I have never seen Homasote at a big box store but maybe that is just here in the Pacific Northwest.
I had my hopes up for a while. I could use a few sheets of good roadbed. So the question becomes, what other comparable products are available nationwide? And, other than holding spikes, what does Homasote have to offer over materials like cork, foam, ceiling tiles, etc.? When I build turnouts these days I usually use PC board ties and solder the rails so spiking is not needed. Probably not easier than using homasote but I have the materials and I'd rather cut switch blanks from lauan than homasote, the plywood cuts a lot better A local lumberyard here the the SF area carries Homosote sheets and I've been using it for decades.
It's old newspaper pulp. I can use a utility knife to freehand cut a ballast shoulder on ten feet of track in about fifteen seconds. Or detail a drainage ditch with an X-acto knife. It cuts like butter. It does generate a lot of dust when you use a saw on it though. Magazine Home Payment rates Contact us. Questions and answers Request an article, book, or video Submit magazine trouble ticket How to read the magazine MRH posting guidelines Contact us.
Mynxx Optima Geneva Helvetica.I've enjoyed using Homasote roadbed for quite a few decades but it seems to have come close to unobtanium in the past few years. Initial indications are good from the new source as my order was shipped out immediately. Prices seem quite good too.
Thanks Rick for the information. I just ordered an 8 foot straight bundle of S roadbed. Your timing couldn't have come at a better time. I'm in the process of redesigning my home layout but first I'm building a staging cassette for my 4'x6' portable layout. I have a number of products that I wanted to tryout, namely roadbed.
Is that really the same thing as Homasote? All these years I've thought Homasote was something special, and it's just the same stuff used in junk furniture? Surely not! Homasote is more a paper product, hence it "softness" to take track spikes. Many of my friends here in Vancouver use spruce plywood instead of homasote, spruce takes spikes very nicely, and the plywood is cut at an angle to the roadbed profile.
No, Homasote and MDF are two completely different things. Homasote is pulped recycled paper pressed together with a type of wax as its binder. It is pretty soft.
One of its other uses is as bulletin boards like the ones most of us grew up with in our school classrooms. Putting a thumbtack or a spike in Homasote is very easy but it holds well. MDF despite its name of "medium density" is, by comparison, hard as a rock. You will not press a thumbtack or spike into it without a hammer or pre drilling. I have never seen Homasote at a big box store but maybe that is just here in the Pacific Northwest. I had my hopes up for a while.The choice of roadbed, or the material that we lay our track down on, is an interesting and complicated one.
It is excellent for spiking track down onto holds spikes really well, not difficult to drive intoit holds its shape and is easily worked with most cutting tools we have on hand jigsaws, utility knives.
It's biggest downside is that most people find the dust generated when cutting it objectionable, and that's hard to argue with. Many opt to purchase homasote strips already pre-cut into a useful roadbed shape thin cross-section with beveled edges. This eliminates the mess and waste of doing the work yourself but at a very steep price - You are paying a lot of money for the convenience of skipping the cutting and dust.
While I liked the product and have actually bought it in the past, the last time I ran out of it I started getting ticked off at how much it cost me to buy something I could easily make for myself in an afternoon.
Well, I got convinced all right, but not to buy the overpriced stuff any more! Not bad for about 5 hours work on a sunny day outside the garage. It was not very hard to do, no special jigs or anything, just some hard work and dust. Most of it was collected by my dust collector which I had to empty two times and the rest by my shop-vac after the fact emptied once.
And the results were just as good as the product I've purchased in the past. Basic Roadbed First, get yourself a good dust mask to protect yourself. Also, try to do this outside as much as possible to maximize your ventilation and minimize the mess you'll need to clean. Homasote makes a LOT of dust, as if you didn't know that. If you do it on a windy day Mother Nature will help you clean but your neighbors won't be really happy.
The smaller sections are easier to handle while cutting, and the 32" length is ideal for handling the strips after cutting they won't break under their own weight as they are handled. Determine your own measurements from the size and scale of your own track, or take them from an existing piece of roadbed you have and like. Don't be afraid to experiment before you cut up the whole sheet. Also decide now if you want to include beveled edges on your roadbed or not.
Ballast profiles can be easily added with joint compound and a putty knife after laying the roadbed down quickly and for little cost. It's up to you, I did the beveling step because I was trying to prove to myself I could do it, but if I were to make more roadbed later I'd skip it. Unless of course you are making a split roadbed, in which case it's pretty simple and doesn't add any cuts.
When you are happy with the width, cut all three panels up into strips. Now set up for milling the strips to thickness. Accuracy counts here if you want a good result. I use a plastic drafting triangle to check and adjust both things. Another good safety device to use here is a zero-clearance insert around your blade. This will help support the thin strips next to the blade and keep them from being drawn down into the space between the blade and the table.
If you have one, use it. If you have a featherboard to help push the strips against the fence, install it now.